Mr Beem discovers Walindi's secret

Mr Beem discovers Walindi's secret

(Post Courier, Friday May 31, 2002 )

After four days on the track riding our Motorbikes down from Rabaul, Mark and I were dirty and tired, scratched and sunburned so too finally arrive at Walindi was a most welcome relief. We were now half way through our trip from one end of New Britain to the otherI think it would be fairly safe to say that most people in PNG have heard about Walindi Resort in West New Britain.

I could ramble on about how Walindi is a tropical paradise set in lush tropical gardens over looking the tranquil waters of Kimbe Bay. But that story has already been done to death. I could describe the Diving and the beautiful reefs that abound in the crystal clear waters that are on Walindi's doorstep, but who has not heard all about that before as well. So I think I am going to tell you about one off Walindi's lesser-known attractions. In fact its one of Walindi's best-kept secrets. They don't mention it in their brochures. The staff at the Resort will not volunteer any information about it either. I think they are trying to keep it for themselves. But I found out, and now I am going to tell you. 'It is the Hot River'.

The Hot River starts in the volcanic mountain Ranges behind the resort, the water comes to the surface at close to boiling point, at the base of one of the higher peaks whose top is often covered in cloud. Then as it tumbles and snakes it's way through the steep gullies and ravines it is joined by other nonvolcanic streams and the hot and the cold waters mix. By the time it has found it's way down to the Oil Palm Plantation at Garu it is a pleasant 36 degrees Celsius about the same temperature as a nice hot bath.
The girls at the resort said they were going out to the river for an afternoon swim and if I would take Mr Beem and give them a ride that I would be welcome to come along too. It only takes about an hour by car, or 30 minutes by Mr Beem to drive from the Resort to a place where the river is cool enough to swim. On the way you drive through miles and miles of new Oil Palm development, most of the time over bumpy and dusty roads set out in grid patterns. The drive is totally impressive, just for the shear size of the project and the obvious professionalism in the way it has been set out. It leaves no doubt in your mind that West New Britain deserves its title as 'The Oil Palm Province'.

When you do finally get to the river it is truly worth the effort. You drive off the track and enter a small clearing just big enough to park a car in. Then you are in the middle of what seems to be virgin Rain forest, birds song and insect noises all around you, sunlight streaming through the tall trees that are covered in vines, and there before you is a little river only about eight metres wide and a metre deep. It looks like any other river that you might find running through a Papua New Guinea Rain Forest. It is only when you look more closely that you notice small wafts of stream rising of the surface and you see that there is no weed or Algae growing on the rivers stony bottom. Then you might get a whiff that tells you of the rivers volcanic origins, the unmistakable aroma of sulphur.

When you first put you big toe in the water it is hard to believe that it is a force of nature that generates this heat, but as you sink into the shallow pool you soon get accustomed to the idea and start to enjoy another of nature's wonders. Just above the little pool where you enter the river is a small cascade where the water comes tumbling over some large rocks. You can climb up the rocks, sit down in one of the little hollows and have the hot bubbling water wash over you and massage your back, neck and shoulders. It is at about this time that you are likely say something like" Oh yes, this is the life" and then when you look up and watch little blue butterflies flit around in the trees and shrubs overhead, you will probably say something like "Oh this really is heaven". The tranquil setting of the forest and the uniqueness of the river combine to form an indelible impression, you just know that you will always
remember the first time you played in the Hot River.

The more adventurous can walk up the river bed and try and discover the source, but be advised that that will take a little more time and effort than most people would like to expend. The water in the river is slightly acidic and has a sharp taste, so it is not much use for drinking. Make sure that you bring some cold drinks with you, because after an hour of playing around in the river you will feel totally drained, totally relaxed and in desperate need of an icy cold drink.

So, that's it, the secret is out. Next time you visit Walindi after you have experienced the diving and the beautiful setting, take the time and visit the Hot River, a truly memorable experience and another one of Papua New Guinea's many natural wonders.