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Secret Mummy Culture on show

(Post Courier, Friday September 6, 2002 )

Many cultures and civilisations around the world have at one time or another preserved the bodies of their dead. This process, commonly called mummification is not generally associated with PNG, but high up in the mountains at the back of Balolo in Morobe province is an area known as Aseki. In Aseki the practice of smoking bodies in order to preserve them in much the same way as you might smoke a fish or a leg of Ham was in times gone by a common practice.

Mr Beem and I set off from Lae after Lunch on a Saturday afternoon. The ride from Lae to Balolo takes around two and a half hours, that's' if you take the time to smell the flowers as you go. At the moment the road is undergoing some major repairs and can throw up a few born jarring surprises if you are not paying very close attention. Mr Beem loves this kind of riding, some nice long flats to get the wind blowing though his radiator, a couple of challenging corners where he can really lean into the bend and get the side walls of his knobblies working and off course plenty off pot holes to give his shockies and springs a good work out.

Balolo was an old Gold mining town, but now the mainstay of the economy seems to be forestry. This is where all the plywood is made for the entire country. It is probably a good idea to spend the night in Balolo, the Pine Lodge is a nice spot. Bring a jumper, because in the evenings you will find a bit off a nip in the air. To go to Aseki you have to leave Balolo early, about six a.m. is a good time, and then you will really feel the coolness of the mountain air. The road to Aseki is dirt and gravel; so depending on the weather it can take a couple of hours or all day to get there. It's a good idea to check with the locals at the Golf Club the night before to get the latest update on conditions. When we went it had been dry for a while and the going was fairly good, even with a few stops to admire the stunning views it only took around three hours. Mr Beem caused the usual response as we drove through these remote villages, chickens and dogs going one way kids and adults running the other. "Motorbike, Motorbike" they would shout. "Ahh lukim".

If you are in Lae for the weekend and at a loss for something to do, may I be so bold as to suggest a mini adventure up to the Smoked Bodies at Aseki.